In the northern part of Portugal, specifically in the Região do Minho, lies a region rich in traditions and art that spans the districts of Braga and Viana do Castelo, along with some twenty municipalities in the basins of the Minho, Lima, Cávado, and Ave rivers. This territory is a melting pot of ancestral customs that have endured through time.
Among these venerable traditions, we delve into the world of spinning wheels and yarn, which for centuries served as a meeting point for women who shared the age-old art of weaving, not only fabrics but also community bonds, to the rhythm of traditional songs. These skilled spinners dedicated themselves to the noble task of transforming animal fibers into threads, which were then turned into textiles for clothing or to embellish homes.
As time passed, traditional roles began to fade, especially from the 20th century onwards, when the image of hand spinning was perceived as an obsolete chore, linked to trivial women's chatter and songs considered old-fashioned. Furthermore, the young women of the time showed decreasing interest in these traditions, and many emigrated from their localities, leading to the gradual oblivion of the art of spinning.

However, in the town of Soajo, nestled in the high lands of Lima and known for its charming Espigueiros (granaries) built on enormous granite slabs, the tradition of the spinners has resurged with strength.
«In winter afternoons, she spun, sang, and waited... that's the spinner,» goes the saying. Today, a group of women has united under the name Las Fiadeiras de Soajo with the firm purpose of preventing this precious heritage from falling into oblivion. Their goal is to ensure the perpetuation of ancestral knowledge by collecting and archiving the songs that once echoed in the fields and the traditional sounds that accompanied the spinners. By doing so, they ensure the transmission of this cultural richness to future generations, thus weaving a future rooted in the past.

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This journal is by Manel Subirats. I explore the intersection of travel, culture, and self-discovery. I share reflective essays, practical guides, and photography tips. If my wandering words resonate with you, please consider joining me :)

It was Henry IV who famously said, "Paris is well worth a Mass." Perhaps. But for someone like me, who roams the world with a camera in hand, I'd say instead: Paris is well worth a thousand images!

No matter how many times I visit the French capital, I always feel the same sensation upon arrival: "Finally, back again." Because there are cities we inhabit, and others—like this one—that we contemplate, explore, and allow ourselves to feel. Paris, with its shifting light and elongated shadows, is a city that begs to be photographed almost instinctively.

Wandering aimlessly through its wide boulevards and hidden alleyways is a way of understanding it. Paris is balance: order and chaos, symmetry and chance. Its haussmannian facades tell stories of a grand past, while reflections in shop windows bring us back to the present. The city unfolds in layers, and each one is a frame waiting to be discovered.

Whether you capture its iconic landmarks or pause in an anonymous alley where the light sketches fleeting silhouettes, the essence of Paris is always present. Here, as in other great cities like New York or London, every corner evokes a literary reference, a film fragment, an accordion melody resonating in our collective memory. It's impossible not to feel that, in some way, the city has already inhabited us before we even arrived.

In the end, the best of Paris is not found in its monuments or museums. It's in what happens between them. In the life that unfolds in the cafés, where Parisians sit watching people pass by, gazing outward rather than at each other. In the markets, where colors and textures seem orchestrated by an Impressionist painter. On the bridges, where sunsets trace perfect silhouettes over the Seine. It's in getting lost without a map, in flâner, as they say here—wandering without direction, simply to feel the city.

The best photographs are not the ones we plan, but the ones that find us. Sometimes it's a reflection in a puddle, a ray of sunlight slipping between buildings, or a shadow cast on a stone wall. Sometimes, it's even a moment of vulnerability—such as the day I ended up at a police station because someone decided my photography gear was more useful to them than to me. But Paris, in its infinite irony, left the camera in my hands. And with it, I kept photographing. Because this city cannot be captured in a single shot—it dissolves into fragments, into light and shadow, into details we carry with us, like an endless reel of memories.

I will return. I know it. Because there are cities we visit, and others we never quite finish photographing. And Paris, with its je ne sais quoi, always leaves something unfinished in a photographer's memory. Until next time, Paris!

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This journal is by Manel Subirats. I explore the intersection of travel, culture, and self-discovery. I share reflective essays, practical guides, and photography tips. If my wandering words resonate with you, please consider joining me :)

Suddenly, in the middle of nowhere, a strip of land emerges, suspended over the ocean. São Jorge, bursts forth with the arrogance of a territory that has withstood centuries of relentless winds and untamable swells. From the small window of the Sata Azores Airlines plane, it shows us *its spine of sharp ridges, leaving only rare respites in the fajãs.

São Jorge does not surrender easily. It doesn't give itself to the first traveler, nor does it offer predictable postcards, but to those who know how to listen, it grants more than just landscapes. It offers its authenticity, with no hurry and no desire for hordes of tourists who inevitably transform natural and social landscapes.

From above, Pico de La Esperanza, standing over a thousand meters tall, watches over a map of impossible greens, with steep ravines plunging into the water and slopes enveloped in mist that move with the slowness of an ancient tale. Its geography is a challenge: a central mountain range splits it into two unequal halves, leaving the south with apparent calm and the north exposed directly to the Atlantic's onslaughts. Between these two extremes, as if they were a mistake or a miracle, lie the fajãs.

This is where the island lowers its guard, where it grants a breath to those who live here. Small oases of fertile soils where vegetable gardens, tiny vineyards, and coffee plantations defy the logic of the climate. Some, like Fajã da Caldeira do Santo Cristo, one of the island's most emblematic spots, are hidden sanctuaries where the ocean filters into secret lagoons and surfers wait patiently for the perfect wave. Others, like Fajã dos Cubres, known for its lagoon, are a mirage of stillness, a reflection of the sky trapped in tranquil waters.

Beyond the fajãs, the island opens up into corners that seem reserved only for the initiated. In Fajã do Ouvidor, the Piscina Natural do Simão Dias takes your breath away with its wild beauty: an immense pool sculpted by time. It's one of those places that seem too perfect to be real.

An Island of Slowed Time

In São Jorge, life does not follow the rush of the world. Here, time is different, marked by the weather and the rhythm of the land. In its villages, the black stone walls speak of a past of effort and resistance; along the paths, cows—absolute rulers of the island—impose the cadence of routes. From above, the Atlantic stretches out in a boundless immensity, and the wind blows with the determination of one who has shaped this landscape for centuries.

The town that serves as the island's capital is Velas. Considered the oldest, it is a refuge amidst the island's ruggedness. Here, the echo of history resonates in century-old churches, in the serenity of the Mirador de Morro Grande and in the small museum that preserves the memories of generations.

But São Jorge is not just landscape. Its soul is found in its scattered villages, in the tradition of hand-embroidered quilts, in the intense flavor of its famous queso de São Jorge, aged for months. The island is a paradise for those seeking solitary trails, hiking among laurel forests like those in the Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes, or for those who surrender to the Atlantic's salt by practicing surfing, snorkeling, or sailing. Here, water is abundant, and you can see it in the meadows, the moss-covered cliffs, and the humidity that permeates everything. A natural wonder that, luckily, remains out of reach of mass tourism circuits.

I write all of this in the house of señor Antonio, belonging to the Asociación de las Casas Açorianas, in Fajã dos Vimes, located on the island's southern coast. Outside, the Atlantic continues to strike the coast with its eternal monologue, as if observing the scene with the patience of one who has seen centuries pass by.

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Day 1: The Sanctuary Reaching for the Sky

If you visit Varese, the first place you must explore is the Sacro Monte Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Arrive early to enjoy the tranquility before the crowds arrive. A pilgrimage site since the Middle Ages, it was founded in 1474 and its current construction was completed in 1698.

From the funicular, the cobbled path—over two kilometers long with its 14 chapels dedicated to the mysteries of the Rosary (the fifteenth being inside the sanctuary)—will amaze you. The surroundings, the architecture, and the panoramic views make this a must-visit spot in the region.

Don’t forget to visit the Ludovico Pogliaghi House Museum. Architect, painter, sculptor, and set designer, Pogliaghi purchased a rural house on Sacro Monte and transformed it into his studio-laboratory-home, where he gathered treasures accumulated over a lifetime dedicated to art. Among its gems are the plaster mold of the Milan Cathedral door, resting like a sleeping giant, and a bath salvaged from a Persian palace that transports you to faraway lands.

But this is Italy, after all, where gastronomy is an essential part of the experience. While visiting Sacro Monte, enjoy lunch at Linea 88 (@linea_ottantotto), located at the base of the funicular. Its terrace is the perfect spot to savor local products—a perfect ending to the visit.

In the afternoon, spend some time strolling through Varese’s historic center. Don’t miss the magnificent Palazzo Estense, with its baroque gardens inspired by Versailles—a peaceful oasis in the heart of the city. The Basilica of San Vittore, with its 13th-century bell tower and baroque interior, is also worth a visit.

To wrap up the day, have dinner at La Vecchia Varese, a cozy restaurant where you can try regional classics like polenta with porcini mushrooms, before returning to the Varese City Hotel for a well-deserved rest. If you’re looking for more charming accommodations, the Palace Grand Hotel, a former palace with panoramic lake views, is an excellent alternative.

Day 2: Villas and Gardens – A Romantic Dream

Continuing with cultural visits, the second day begins with a visit to Villa Cagnola (open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM), one of the gems of romantic-style architecture with a Lombard garden—a romantic dream cast in stone. Inside, it houses a valuable art collection assembled by Guido Cagnola. Originally owned by the Perabo family and later acquired by Giuseppe Cagnola, the villa was eventually donated to the Holy See, which used it to house an institute for religious sciences.

Its gardens, inspired by English aristocracy but with a distinctly Italian spirit, invite you to wander its paths, where each turn reveals a new view of Lake Varese and Monte Rosa.

Next, I recommend heading to the Via Francisca del Lucomagno, an ancient pilgrimage route to Rome. The best way to experience it is by car—park for free near the trailhead and then enjoy a six-kilometer walk (don’t worry, it’s entirely flat and accessible) that leads to Castiglione Olona.

For lunch, try the surprising orange or strawberry risottos at Osteria degli Artisti (open from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM and from 7:00 PM to 11:00 PM). If you prefer something more traditional, their ossobuco with risotto alla Milanese is a perfect combination.

After lunch, take a stroll through Castiglione Olona, known as “the Tuscan island in Lombardy”—named by Italian poet and playwright Gabriele D’Annunzio. Within its ancient stone walls, time seems to have stopped in the 15th century, and its cobbled streets still echo with medieval footsteps. The Collegiata, overlooking the town from the hilltop, houses frescoes by Masolino, true treasures of the Italian Renaissance.

Once the day is done, it’s time to head back to your hotel and then go out for dinner to remember all the day. I recommend the restaurant Al Pirée in Varese, which serves contemporary Lombard cuisine in a cozy atmosphere.

Day 3: The Lake That Holds Secrets

The third day is for leaving history behind for a few hours and immersing yourself in nature with a sailing trip on one of Lombardy’s most famous lakes, Lake Maggiore. Several companies offer this service; in our case, we chose Navigazione Lago Maggiore. The best time to visit is between April and October, when the weather is pleasant and the days are longer.

Lake Maggiore is the second-largest lake in Italy after Lake Garda. Its waters touch the Swiss canton of Ticino as well as the Italian regions of Piedmont and Lombardy. In the distance, lakeside towns retain the charm of the Belle Époque.

Don’t miss the Borromean Islands, true gems in the middle of the lake:

• Isola Bella houses the majestic Palazzo Borromeo with its stunning terraced gardens.

• Isola Madre stands out for its palace and lush botanical garden.

• Isola dei Pescatori preserves the essence of a traditional fishing village.

A combined ticket is available to visit all three islands, and ferries depart regularly from Stresa. I recommend driving from Varese and parking in the nearby lots by the pier.

Another must-see is the Santa Caterina del Sasso Monastery, clinging to a cliff like a miracle of stone. Viewed from the water, the monastery appears as a natural extension of the rock. If you have time, the visit is well worth it (about two hours is enough). In high season, it is open from 8:30 AM to 7:00 PM and can be accessed by boat from Laveno or by descending 268 steps (or using the elevator).

Legend has it that the monastery was founded by Alberto Besozzi, a wealthy merchant who survived a shipwreck on the lake and chose to retire as a hermit, erecting a chapel dedicated to Saint Catherine.

To end the trip perfectly, have dinner at Il Porticciolo in Laveno, where fresh fish dishes and lake views provide the perfect finale.

The Soul of Lombardy

Lombardy offers more than just monuments and landscapes; it's the rich taste of its creatively seasoned risottos, the smell of coffee filling the squares at sunrise, and the cool touch of its waters during a spontaneous swim.

It’s a region that refuses to be boxed in, condensing centuries of history into experiences that defy the passage of time. And while the world rushes forward at a frantic pace, there will always be a corner where time stands still, reminding us of what truly matters: the enduring beauty, the stories that transcend, and the authenticity that, like a hidden treasure, awaits discovery by those who know how to look beyond the obvious.

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